Santorini beers are gaining a foothold on the domestic and international market, aiming to follow in the footsteps of the Greek island’s world-renowned wines.
Santorini‘s dramatic volcanic landscape and arid climate, which concentrates the flavors and aromas of the island’s famous grapes despite minimal rainfall, are giving rise to Santorini beers. A compelling craft beer scene is taking root, offering a taste experience as singular as the island itself.
Ftelos Brewery of Santorini
Ftelos Brewery began as a vision of a team of three passionate businessmen on Santorini to create unique beers.
Manolis Chloridis, President of Ftelos, aims to offer more than just a beverage; he seeks to provide a holistic experience. “We want a beer that says, I am from here, a beer that the visitor tries, and they will get a whole experience, that we combine with gastronomy,” he told Greek Reporter.
The inherent contrasts of Santorini, including its intense terroir, light, atmosphere, and air, are what Ftelos strives to capture in its beers. They employ an open fermentation process, attempting to integrate the island’s unique microorganisms from wild plants, old chimneys, and even vine leaves. This distinct approach, combined with a focus on the human element and the businessmen’s passion, led them to choose beer over wine for expression, noting that wine has certain production limitations.
What makes Santorini beer special? “It is the whole package of Santorini, everything that makes it special, all the beer in general,” Chloridis insisted. This includes the terroir, the water used for fermentation, the raw materials, and crucially, the human factor—the passion and recipes.
Ftelos is actively engaged in exports, shipping to destinations such as the USA, Italy, and recently even receiving inquiries from Belgium. “We are growing gradually and steadily,” Chloridis notes, emphasizing their respect for how their product is presented and consumed abroad.
At their brewery, Ftelos offers more than just tastings. They provide a tour of their facilities, focusing on a unique blend of Greek and Santorini gastronomy with their beers. This approach goes beyond a simple pairing; it creates an immersive experience where each label offers a distinct taste.
Santorini Brewing Company: The Pioneering Donkey Beers
Another significant player in the Santorini beer scene is the Santorini Brewing Company, which opened its doors 14 years ago in 2011. Maida Anderson, one of the partners, admits they began without extensive brewing knowledge, starting with a small 300-liter brewhouse. Due to demand, they quickly expanded to a 1,000-liter tank, though it remains relatively small.
The Santorini Brewing Company primarily supplies beer to Santorini itself, with a strong presence on the island. They also have a distributor in the US and have exported to countries like Japan, Australia, Panama, Poland, and the UK although most of their beer is consumed locally on Santorini.
Their brewing journey began with equipment from an Austrian company, which guided them through the process. The brewer meticulously developed recipes, starting with Yellow Donkey, to suit Santorini’s climate, the summer tourist season, and Greek cuisine, aiming for a light, refreshing beer perfect for sitting by the sea.
A key characteristic of their beers is that they are unfiltered and unpasteurized, which necessitates refrigeration and results in a shorter shelf life compared to commercially filtered lagers. From the outset, they introduced Yellow Donkey and Red Donkey, a Belgian-style ale, aiming for two distinctly different profiles. Over the years, they’ve expanded their repertoire with unique seasonal creations, such as Salty Donkey, a collaboration with an Athens brewery, and Smart Ass, a highly hoppy beer.
The Santorini Brewing Company imports hops from various global regions, including New Zealand, Australia, North America, and Slovenia, while their malt comes from Austria. Given Santorini’s limited water resources, their water is sourced from a desalination plant. The brewery now features an upstairs tasting area where visitors are welcomed to sample their distinctive brews.
Volkan: A taste of Santorini’s essence
One name that has become synonymous with Santorini beer is Volkan. This brewery prides itself on integrating local elements into its production process. Volkan beers are brewed with lava rock-filtered mineral water and incorporate unique local ingredients such as rare Santorini grape honey and ancient kitron essence from Naxos.
Their distinctive range includes Volkan Santorini Blonde (Pilsner), Volkan Santorini Black (Dunkel), Volkan Santorini Grey (Wheat Exotic Lager), and Volkan Santorini White (Light Blonde Lager).
Santorini’s unique volcanic environment and challenging climate, so celebrated for its wines, are proving equally fertile ground for a distinctive and growing craft beer industry. The breweries exemplify how passion, innovation, and a deep connection to the island’s terroir are shaping truly unique Santorini beers that offer visitors and locals alike a taste of this extraordinary Aegean island.
The Greek beer market is a developing sector, with increasing consumption. While per capita consumption in Greece (around 1 liter) is still significantly lower than the European average (7-8 liters), Santorini’s robust hospitality and tourism sector provide a unique gateway to the international market.
Related: Greece’s Handcrafted Beers Hit the Spot